Shells and car bodies are made of a plastic-like acrylic material. The color varies, typically it is translucent clear or blue. Sometimes shells can be slightly warped or curved after manufacture. This can be corrected by dipping the model in heated water (not boiling) and gently flexing to shape. When the shell cools it will retain the new shape.
There are usually some visible surface irregularities, such as a faint cross-hatching from the manufacturing process. We recommend light sanding and/or burnishing with a wood toothpick before painting for the best surface finish. For sanding, we have found the MicroMark 280 grit "Flex-Pad" sanding sticks ideal for this task. The sticks can be cut down with shears as they wear, or shaped into thinner sections for getting into nooks and crannies.
Very delicate protruding details are often reproduced on our shells, such as buffers, roof overhangs, platforms, etc. In order to give them some added protection, these details can be "painted" with ACC (superglue) using a scrap brush prior to finishing the model. This stiffens them a bit more and helps protect them from handling. Even so they are quite delicate so be careful when handling!
Painting: Before painting, we recommend cleaning the body shell and details with a stiff bristle artists brush or an old soft bristle toothbrush to make sure any uncured acrylic "goo", or dust from sanding is removed. This also tends to smooth out some of the "fuzzies" as well. Washing in soapy water is also recommended to remove any traces of the waxy acrylic. A coat of primer will fill in remaining surface irregularities. A primer coat helps provide a neutral base for any light colors as well. Once painted, the shells may be decalled and weathered as desired..
Working with Shells: Shells may be modified and kitbashed by the modeler. The material takes ACC (superglue) very well. We like "Gorilla" brand Super Glue with the blue cap. Note that the material is more brittle than styrene, so special care should be taken especially with small detail parts and thin parts of the shell. We are constantly looking to update designs to make them better and stronger. In some cases, shells are designed to take added etched detail parts where the acrylic is too fragile (such as the roofwalk on the 40' boxcar), which the modeller may choose to add if so desired.
Fitting to Mechanisms: In most cases, the stock mechanism needs modification to fit the shells. In some cases this is minor, but it can be a challenge (such as with the F7A). Shells can be sanded/scraped slightly on the inside if the mechanism fit is too snug. See also the specific How To pages for fitting Eishindo mechanisms to various shells.
Tracking Magnets: For freight & passenger cars, to improve adhesion to the tracks, one or more 3/16" x 3/16" x 1/32" thick magnets may be inserted flat on the bottom of the ca. (Available from "K&J Magnetics", item B3301). Many cars are designed with recessed areas for these magnets. Un-magnetized wheelsets work better when using the "tracking" magnet system. K&J also makes very small 1/16" cube magnets (item B111) that can be used for example with the NE Caboose. The HTA hopper will take K&J item B4201 directly into the middle hopper from the top.
Trucks/Couplers & Mechanism: Please note, no mechanism, trucks or couplers are included with our standard shells. It is intended that the modeler use Eishindo stock trucks, with either the standard coupler, or another coupler of the modelers choosing. Mounting holes for the trucks should be drilled 4mm from the end of the car. There may be some fitting needed with the trucks to get them to swing correctly and have room for the coupler. We also recommend removing the upward-pointing pins on the stock trucks (which limit the swing of the truck) although you can drill holes where the pins hit the car underside. A small washer may be used to give additional height if wanted.
Sideframes: CCE makes more prototypic sideframes for most of our models that can be applied to the stock trucks. When available, they are included in the kits. To apply these, sand down the outside face of the stock trucks, apply the sideframe with ACC, and paint to the desired color.
There are usually some visible surface irregularities, such as a faint cross-hatching from the manufacturing process. We recommend light sanding and/or burnishing with a wood toothpick before painting for the best surface finish. For sanding, we have found the MicroMark 280 grit "Flex-Pad" sanding sticks ideal for this task. The sticks can be cut down with shears as they wear, or shaped into thinner sections for getting into nooks and crannies.
Very delicate protruding details are often reproduced on our shells, such as buffers, roof overhangs, platforms, etc. In order to give them some added protection, these details can be "painted" with ACC (superglue) using a scrap brush prior to finishing the model. This stiffens them a bit more and helps protect them from handling. Even so they are quite delicate so be careful when handling!
Painting: Before painting, we recommend cleaning the body shell and details with a stiff bristle artists brush or an old soft bristle toothbrush to make sure any uncured acrylic "goo", or dust from sanding is removed. This also tends to smooth out some of the "fuzzies" as well. Washing in soapy water is also recommended to remove any traces of the waxy acrylic. A coat of primer will fill in remaining surface irregularities. A primer coat helps provide a neutral base for any light colors as well. Once painted, the shells may be decalled and weathered as desired..
Working with Shells: Shells may be modified and kitbashed by the modeler. The material takes ACC (superglue) very well. We like "Gorilla" brand Super Glue with the blue cap. Note that the material is more brittle than styrene, so special care should be taken especially with small detail parts and thin parts of the shell. We are constantly looking to update designs to make them better and stronger. In some cases, shells are designed to take added etched detail parts where the acrylic is too fragile (such as the roofwalk on the 40' boxcar), which the modeller may choose to add if so desired.
Fitting to Mechanisms: In most cases, the stock mechanism needs modification to fit the shells. In some cases this is minor, but it can be a challenge (such as with the F7A). Shells can be sanded/scraped slightly on the inside if the mechanism fit is too snug. See also the specific How To pages for fitting Eishindo mechanisms to various shells.
Tracking Magnets: For freight & passenger cars, to improve adhesion to the tracks, one or more 3/16" x 3/16" x 1/32" thick magnets may be inserted flat on the bottom of the ca. (Available from "K&J Magnetics", item B3301). Many cars are designed with recessed areas for these magnets. Un-magnetized wheelsets work better when using the "tracking" magnet system. K&J also makes very small 1/16" cube magnets (item B111) that can be used for example with the NE Caboose. The HTA hopper will take K&J item B4201 directly into the middle hopper from the top.
Trucks/Couplers & Mechanism: Please note, no mechanism, trucks or couplers are included with our standard shells. It is intended that the modeler use Eishindo stock trucks, with either the standard coupler, or another coupler of the modelers choosing. Mounting holes for the trucks should be drilled 4mm from the end of the car. There may be some fitting needed with the trucks to get them to swing correctly and have room for the coupler. We also recommend removing the upward-pointing pins on the stock trucks (which limit the swing of the truck) although you can drill holes where the pins hit the car underside. A small washer may be used to give additional height if wanted.
Sideframes: CCE makes more prototypic sideframes for most of our models that can be applied to the stock trucks. When available, they are included in the kits. To apply these, sand down the outside face of the stock trucks, apply the sideframe with ACC, and paint to the desired color.
General Information
